Pamplona, Spain - The Running of the Bulls

Pamplona, Spain - The Running of the Bulls

PAMPLONA, SPAIN – THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS

Zack’s Rating: ★★★★★   Ease of Travel: ★★★★☆   Wallet Friendly: ★★★☆☆

The Experience

There’s no real way to describe the mix of nerves and excitement that builds as you wait for the first rocket to fire, signaling the release of the bulls. That morning, there were three of us lined up at the start — two of my very best friends in life, Ben Kearney and Wes Karber, and me — while our wives and kids watched from a balcony above the course. You’re shoulder to shoulder with other runners, heart pounding, eyes scanning the cobblestone streets. Then the second rocket fires, the Bulls are all on the course — and it’s game on.

We ran right before Dead Man’s Corner, darting down narrow streets with massive animals thundering behind us. It’s fast, it’s intense, and it’s over before you know it — but the rush stays with you.

Like many before us, we were inspired by The Sun Also Rises, Hemingway’s classic novel that immortalized Pamplona’s San Fermín festival nearly a century ago. Reading his gritty, romantic depiction of bull runs and café culture lit a fire in us years ago — and now, standing in those very streets, it all came to life. The energy, the danger, the tradition — it felt like we were stepping straight into the pages of his book.

What to Expect in the City

Pamplona during San Fermín is electric — and loud. The parties don’t stop. Literally. The celebration goes 24 hours a day with music, parades, dancing, fireworks, and nonstop energy in the streets. If you’re staying in the city and plan on keeping somewhat normal sleeping hours (especially with kids), pack earplugs.

If you’re traveling with family or friends who won’t be running, renting a spot on a balcony along the course is absolutely worth it. It gives them a safe, elevated view of the action and lets them soak in the tradition without the chaos of the street.

Where We Stayed:

Home Sweet Home Main St Pamplona — ★★★★★ (5.00)

Clean, modern, and perfectly located. We could walk to everything — the starting line, the arena, cafés, and shops — yet it was just far enough from the chaos to feel comfortable and safe. Ideal if you’re bringing kids or traveling with spectators.

Where We Drank:

  • Café Iruña — ★★★★☆ (4.00)
    Historic, iconic, and absolutely worth visiting for the vibe. During San Fermín it gets extremely crowded — come early for the best shot at a seat.

  • Soto del Prior — ★★★★☆ (4.5)Just outside the busiest parts of Pamplona, Soto del Prior was a great change of pace from the festival chaos. Relaxed, more local feeling, and a solid spot for a proper sit-down meal and good wine.

    Kalimotxo (red wine + cola) is part of the tradition… you try it once and you’ll understand why it stays local.

What We Explored:

  • Balcony Viewing Spot for the Run — ★★★★★ (5.00)
    Worth every penny for spectators — safe, elevated, and unforgettable.
  • Old Town / Plaza del Castillo— ★★★★☆ (4.50)

    The heart of Pamplona’s old town and one of Hemingway’s favorite stomping grounds. Plaza del Castillo is where café culture, late nights, and pre-run nerves all seem to collide. It’s lively, historic, and the perfect place to soak up the energy of San Fermín — just wandering the cobblestone streets feels like stepping into scenes Hemingway once wrote about.

Pamplona Travel Tip:

Pack earplugs if you plan to sleep. And if you’re running, have a clear entry + exit plan before you ever step onto the course.

Final Thoughts

Running with the bulls was wild, intense, and unforgettable — one of those stories I’ll be telling for the rest of my life. Whether you’re running or spectating, Pamplona during San Fermín is something you have to experience at least once.

And if you do? Stay somewhere nice. You’ll want a good place to catch your breath afterward.